Sarajevo


The DJ of the club we entered was off duty because a local band had taken the stage and started playing ex-yugoslavian rock from decades ago. I came up to him.

“You know, you Bosnians really have soul.”
“Thank you” he replied “but I’m not Bosnian,  I’m from Belgrade.”
I smiled. “Let me correct myself. We Balkans really do have soul.”
“We really do”, smiling back and turning to look at the crowd.

On New Year’s eve I had bought chocolate-covered cranberries in the supermarket. While taking my last walk around the city alone hours before our departure, a thought arose to mind. Sarajevo is the cranberry, the heart of the Balkans, dipped in Islamic heritage.

The little streets of the city’s old bazaar Baščaršija captivate your attention and leave you almost a bit disinterested for seeing other parts of the city. Little stands offer historical souvenirs of turkish influence for reasonable prices, wherever you look kind eyes, happy people.

More reason to visit this frosty yet warmhearted place are some of Bosnia’s unavoidable specialties. The most popular being čevapi (grilled minced meat) typically served in a flat bread called lepinja with chopped onions and kajmak (type of cream) or ajvar (traditional relish made with peppers and garlic). Another must-try in Bosnia is burek, or pita, which is  greasy, delicious baked or fried thin dough, filled with minced meat or cheese, potatoes, spinach… For these two specialties visit some of Sarajevo’s most famous “Čevabdžinica Mrkva” or “Burekdžinica Sač”. For all you fellow addicts of mine, don’t forget to try the Bosnian, or as we call it- Turkish coffee in more or less any café.

The atmosphere is probably what will enchant you the most. The people are cheerful, humorous and honest. In my opinion, very open-minded in comparison to other Balkan nations. Maybe it’s due to the peaceful coexistence of the world’s major religions there for centuries. Or maybe it’s the other way around. In any case, Sarajevo is just so much more than a single post could describe.

Go visit!
Marija


DJ kluba je stajao pored svog pulta slušajući lokalni bend koji je krenuo svirati ex-yu pjesme od prije nekoliko desetljeća, pa sam mu prišla.

“Vi bosanci baš imate duše.”
“Hvala ti” odgovori on, “ali ja ti nisam Bosanac, ja sam iz Beograda.”
Nasmijala sam se. “Ok, ispravak netočnog navoda. Mi balkanci stvarno imamo duše.”
“Stvarno imamo” reko je smiješući se.

Na staru godinu sam kupila brusnice u čokoladi u sarajevskom supermarketu. Šetajući se po gradu sama posljednji put prije odlaska, palo mi je nešto napamet. Sarajevo brusnica, srce Balkana, umočena u islamsku baštinu.

Uličice stare Baščaršije potpuno osvajaju pažnju i ostavljaju te skoro i malo nezainteresiranim prema drugim dijelovima grada. Štandovi nude tradicionalne suvenire turskog utjecaja po povoljnim cijenama, a gdje god pogledaš, vesela i nasmijana lica.

Još jedan razlog za posjetiti ovo hladno ali prijateljski toplo mjesto su naravno nezaobilazni bosanski specijaliteti. Vama koji me razumijete ne moram ni objašnjavati da ne možete provesti vrijeme u Bosni bez da se tovite čevapima s lukom i kajmakom, pitama i baklavama, a za to bih preporučila čevabdžinicu Mrkva i buregdžinicu Sač (hvala Ilda na ostalim savjetima!). Dakako vama prijateljima ovisnicima preporučam i bosansu kahvu.

Atmosfera je vjerojatno ono što će vas najviše oduševiti. Ljudi su opušteni, duhoviti i iskreni. Po mom mišljenju, puno otvoreniji u odnosu na druge balkanske narode. Možda je to zbog mirnog suživota najvećih svjetskih religija već stoljećima, a možda je baš obrnuto. U svakom slučaju, Sarajevo je puno više nego što bi se moglo opisati u jednom postu.

Perceptive. Detailed. Impatient. Curious. Eager. Believer. Leo. marija@lestandart.com

1 Comment

  • January 4, 2013

    skobi

    CAPAJEBO ROCKS!